Frequently Asked Questions

A: Most of the time, this is caused by improper venting or a clogged venting past the dryer. We would recommend cleaning the vent that is through your wall from the outside of your home in and from the inside of your home out. If this does not fix the problem, then please contact us with your model number to book a service call.

A: If your home has a fuse panel, we always have the customer check to make sure one of the two fuses that are allocated to the dryer is not burnt. An easy way to do this is to flip the double cartridge around (one fuse is for the motor, and the other is for the element). If after flipping the cartridge the dryer does not start, then you will need to replace the fuse. If the dryer still runs with no heat, please contact us with your model number to book a service call.

A: Most of the time, this is caused by one of the two elements being burnt. Normally you can see a bubble or scorch mark on the element, and sometimes it is broken in half. We carry over 100 oven elements in stock, call us to see if we have yours!

A: We always have our customers put their oven on broil to make sure it is not coming on. If it does, we would recommend checking the bake element for continuity. If it shows a broken circuit, then you will need a new bake element. We carry over 100 oven elements in stock, call us to see if we have yours! If the broil does not come on and does not appear to be broken or blistered, then the most common culprit would be the oven control board. We stock a wide selection of both new and rebuilt control boards. Before purchasing a control board, we would recommend testing both the bake and broil elements for continuity to make sure that both elements have not burnt at the same time. If you do not have a continuity tester, bring in your elements, and we will test them at the door for free.

A: The first thing we get our customers to do is to move your timer to a different wash area and stop at the drain section (if you typically use the “normal” section, then go to the “delicate” section). If it drains, then you have a dead spot in your timer. We stock a wide selection of both new and rebuilt timers. If your washer still does not drain, then the most common cause is a broken lid switch. We stock all the common lid switches, call with your model number, and we will check to see if we have yours.

A: The most common issue is a dirty pressure switch hose, you may want a technician to come out and either clean or replace it. Call us with your model number, and we can schedule a home visit.

A: We always have our customers run their front load empty (no clothing) on a spin-only cycle. If it is quiet, then you most likely need one or more shocks. If it is still loud and banging around, then you should get another washer. We stock new GE brand front loads and offer a four-year extended warranty.

A: The most common cause is that your bellows are not on tight or there is damage to the rubber. If you cannot see any damage, then we can tighten the metal retainers that hold the bellows on, if it continues to leak, then you will need to replace the bellows. If you can see the damage (rip, tear, chunks taken out), then the bellows will need to be replaced. Call us with your model number, and we can give you a quote over the phone.

A: First, make sure that your water has not been shut off (the valve is normally under the sink next to the dishwasher). Still no water? Then you most likely need a new water valve. We stock the most common water valves, call us with your model number, and we can schedule a service call.

A: The most common issues are either a clogged drain hose or a broken drain pump. Sometimes this issue can be fixed by taking apart the sump assembly and cleaning out any debris, if that does not work, then you will probably need a new drain pump. We stock the most common pumps, please call with your model number to book a service call.